|
04-18-2009, 03:46 AM
| #42 |
| Hastatus Prior  Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: vermont
Posts: 1,594
|
this is a little kids art on how i bleed brakes,i find it to be faster and better than any mityvac job i have ever done. get a jar put a little fluid in the bottom, attach hose to bleed screw. zip tie a loop in it, open bleed screw. oh and make sure resivor is open and rdy to go. start pumping. you can do it yourself as you dont have to keep closing the bleed screw. i have found that using the mityvac you have to pull the bleed screw all the wat out and tape the threads(damn i just forgot the name of that white tape $H!t) with out it you will suck air through the threads and never be happy.  |
|
04-18-2009, 05:32 AM
| #43 |
| Tirone Choolaces  Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Southern Maryland, USA
Posts: 3,768
|
I made a brake bleeder that looks similar to 3d's setup, but added a vacuum source. Brake Bleeder +1 on sealing the threads on the bleeder screw when using a vacuum source |
|
04-18-2009, 06:41 AM
| #44 |
| Moderator  Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: The woods of CT
Posts: 9,631
|
The topic of brake bleeding continues to come up over and over, do a search and see what I mean. Added to the 919 Helpful Topics are marylandmike' homemade brake bleeder procedure and robtharalson's procedure. Either of these 2 methods are worth checking out. Me personally: Never had any problems with the tried and true pump/squeeze/crack the bleed nipple/repeat as necessary. |
|
04-22-2009, 08:05 AM
| #45 |
| 919, CRF250X, LC4, CB400F  Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 623
|
I installed some SS front lines the other day. Attempted that "tried and true" traditional method. Couldn't get squat for results. Could have never finished this job without a Mityvac and also I thought key was some teflon tape on the bleed screws. Will never bleed brakes without a Mityvac and teflon tape again. The Mityvac cost me $38 at the Iron Pony store, but in review I should have checked out what Harbor Freight had to offer first. |
|
05-11-2009, 09:41 AM
| #46 |
| Princeps Prior  Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,936
|
While rebanding my wheels at TJs place, he mentioned ss lines were the best money spent so far due to hose expansion under pressure. Also suggested being aware of unscheduled stoppies. But never once spoke of bleeding issues.  |
|
05-31-2009, 02:40 PM
| #47 |
| Guzzi Man Join Date: May 2009 Location: Towson,MD 21204
Posts: 179
|
Will they do a 2 line front like some Triumphs and Suzukis use where one line goes from the mastercylinder to the right caliper and the second hose goes over the fender to the right caliper? This seems to me to be a neater installation than a 2 line race kit.
|
|
06-01-2009, 03:55 AM
| #48 |
| Hastatus Prior Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: vermont
Posts: 1,594
|
well i dunno but i have seen very nice and neat race kits. then again seen some bad ones. i dont like the idea of a brake line scratching my fender though. |
|
06-01-2009, 05:33 AM
| #49 |
| Chuck Norris has lost in battle with this Member  |
One thing in addition to the SS lines. If you spend a few more bucks and get the proper weight springs for your bike. I had put the ss lines on my 919 and was kinda underwhelmed untill I dropped a set of racetech springs in. Wow amazing difference. Do yourself a favor. Suspension makes a world of difference |
|
03-09-2010, 12:14 PM
| #50 |
| Devils Advocate  Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 86
|
Ordered. I sometimes feel like I buy more stuff for my bike than I get to ride it  |
|
03-09-2010, 01:36 PM
| #52 |
| Pandorian  Join Date: May 2009 Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 239
|
I just installed my SS lines last weekend. The bleeding procedure was somewhat rushed, and the brakes feel like there may be some air left in the system. I will throw on a set of speedbleeders, which will hopefully make things easier. Another thing I like to do is use ATE Superblue DOT4 brake fluid. Use to use it on the track/street car awhile back and had great results. The blue color will tell you when you have replaced the system with the new fluid. Vice versa when it's time to replace the blue fluid. Last edited by andrewebay1; 03-09-2010 at 01:39 PM. |
|
03-09-2010, 06:49 PM
| #53 | |
| Devils Advocate Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 86
| Quote:
 I ordered one when you first started taking preorders. I was going to order the lines at the same time, but I just never got around to it. Then I had some extra cash laying around, so I am finishing what I started more than a few months ago. If I cannot find it, then I'll hit you up.
| |
|
03-09-2010, 10:22 PM
| #54 |
| 919>food>beer  Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Tucson, Az
Posts: 909
|
I got my G&J lines and mach moto holder coming in this week, I also got the Mityvac and a scrap lexan piece that I plan to fabricate to work as an upper vacuum source to pull the air up, I believe Rob Tharson did a write up on this before. It should work pretty well and easy.
|
|
03-14-2010, 03:04 PM
| #55 |
| Immune  Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 331
|
I put a set of these on last year but have found the stock length a little to long for my ultra lows. Any one running ultra lows order the lines shorter? If so by how much?
|
|
05-19-2010, 09:57 PM
| #56 |
| Tirone Join Date: May 2010 Location: jaipur
Posts: 3
|
well i dunno but i have seen very nice and neat race kits. then again seen some bad ones. i dont like the idea of a brake line scratching my fender though. |
|
05-20-2010, 01:27 PM
| #57 | |
| Old, Bold rider  Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,487
| Quote:
The colored sleeves reinforce my contention that the SS lines are more for bling than actual braking performance improvement -- at least on the street. On the track they are absolutely essential, but more for consistent braking feel due to their much greater heat resistance than the OE lines. A quick illustration: a couple years ago a racer bought a CBR1000 on Friday, spooned on a pair of racing tires, safety wired everything, and went racing Sunday. He reported that the brakes lost much of their power by the 10th (of 15) lap, and the lever was coming back nearly to the grip by the last lap. Upon inspection the OE lines looked fine until the lever was pulled whereupon they balooned to about twice their original diameter at the caliper banjos, and when pulled a bit harder one burst! Obviously overheated, which the SS lines can't do at these temperatures. This is almost impossible to do on the street. As to the improved feel, if you have as much experience with braking systems as I do (over 30 years setting up and modifying) and fettled brakes with OE lines you would be hard pressed to feel any difference when fitting SS lines for the street. I will not set up OE lines for the track for obvious reasons. Only you can say if your street riding requires SS lines, and if the answer is yes TAKE IT TO THE TRACK!!!! Of course if you like the look by all means go for it.  Let the flaming begin.Rob | |
|
05-20-2010, 01:52 PM
| #58 | |
| The Cripple Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 472
| Quote:
 | |
|
05-20-2010, 02:27 PM
| #59 |
| Immune  Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas
Posts: 397
|
I felt an improvement with SS lines. HOWEVER, I would be willing to bet that a large part of the improvement most of us feel is due to new brake fluid and freshly bled lines. Opinion, Rob?
|
|
05-20-2010, 02:32 PM
| #60 | ||
| Old, Bold rider Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,487
| Quote:
Brake systems require occasional attention and usually feel better with fresh fluid and less air. Good point. Quote:
That's another aspect I didn't mention which deserves attention -- OE lines deteriorate over time and use. If they are more than 8 years (or so) old or get heat cycled a lot the inner reinforcement starts to break down and the brake slowly starts to feel softer. Many attribute this to the whole system getting old, but the main culprit is the lines. SS lines do not break down unless they are physically crushed or otherwise damaged, and I know of at least 3 bikes I set up over 20 years ago with brakes that still feel as good as the day they were fitted. Since I have never priced out OE rubber lines I wasn't aware they were that expensive! Just checked Ron Ayers and the front lines for a 919 retail for $80 -- about the same as a full set of G&J lines, and $30 more than just the fronts. The definition of a no brainer. Rob Last edited by robtharalson; 05-20-2010 at 02:43 PM. | ||
|
05-20-2010, 03:38 PM
| #61 | |
| Immune Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas
Posts: 397
| Quote:
| |
|
05-20-2010, 03:52 PM
| #62 | |
| Old, Bold rider Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,487
| Quote:
 In the same way buying a new bike and a spare motor at the same time could be classified as "preventive maintenance". Fine if you're racing where the motor is as expendable as the tires, but a bit excessive otherwise. Let's call it "preventive bling" and be done with it. At least the bling is functional in this case. Rob | |
|
05-20-2010, 10:26 PM
| #63 |
| Immune Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas
Posts: 397
|
Preventive bling it is. Lol.
|
Linear Mode
